Optimasi Carboxymethyl Cellulose Sodium dan Carbopol dalam Masker Gel Ekstrak Gliserin-Air Bunga Telang Sebagai Antioksidan

Abstract

The skin, as a protective organ, is constantly exposed to oxidative conditions, both endogenous and exogenous, leading to the formation of free radicals. Prolonged exposure to free radicals can cause skin cell damage, such as premature aging. Clitoria ternatea L. (butterfly pea flower) is a plant known for its antioxidant properties due to anthocyanins, a class of flavonoids, found in its flowers. Gel masks are a topical formulation that enhance skin moisture and facilitate the rapid absorption of antioxidants. The formulation of gel masks heavily depends on the choice of gelling agents, such as Carboxymethyl Cellulose Sodium (CMC Na) and Carbopol, which influence the stability, properties, and physical characteristics of the product. This study aimed to optimize the concentrations of CMC Na and Carbopol using Design Expert 13 software and the Simplex Lattice Design method. The results showed that increasing the concentrations of CMC Na and Carbopol improved the viscosity, pH, and spreadability of the gel mask. The interaction of using both gelling agents simultaneously can increase viscosity while decreasing pH and spreadability. The optimal formula consisted of 3.395% CMC Na and 0.605% Carbopol, yielding a viscosity of 288.510 dPa.s, pH of 5.568, and spreadability of 5.239 cm. The optimized gel mask demonstrated a strong antioxidant activity with an IC50 value of 40.21 ppm ± 0.180. These findings indicate that the optimized formulation provides ideal physical characteristics and effective antioxidant activity, making it a promising candidate for skin care applications.