Wind-Generated Wave Simulation on Payangan Beach Utilizing DELFT3D

Abstract

The Southern Coastal area of Jember has been damaged almost yearly by coastal flooding and high waves, especially Payangan Beach. A study on high waves is urgently needed for disaster risk preparedness. This study is conducted to model the high waves and simulate the effect on the beach. Delft3D-Wave model is used to provide a spatiotemporal characteristic of the event. The focus of the study is to analyze the high waves on Payangan Beach generated by wind forces. The domain model is a curvilinear grid with a grid size ranging from 130 m until 900 m. National bathymetric data and CDS Copernicus wind data were utilized as data sources. The simulation outcomes have shown that waves are generated far from the coastline across the ocean inside the fetch area. The simulations show the significant wave height increase during the high waves event according to specific meteorological characteristics from 1.6–2.0 m on normal days and exceeding 3.2 m when the high waves hit.